Friday, 28 August 2015

Christmas Knitted star



 Knitted Star motiv


Untitled
                                                 (Rights 4 Crafts from the CWTH website)


     Hoy te propongo un pequeño tapete en forma de estrella, fácil para quien se esté iniciando en tejer en redondo, disminuciones a izquierda y derecha. Según que nivel tengas, tardas una tarde o unas horas. La verdad es que es más fácil de lo que parece en la imagen. Una vez haces la parte central, y aprendes a hacer una estela, sabes hacer las demás. Por el precio, según el hilo que utilices ( en mi caso fue caro) pero no gasta demasiado porque es pequeña. Merece la pena utilizar algo dorado o plateado para que resalte, pero para gustos colores!!!!

Si se te apetece hacer uno y aprender,  este patrón se lo debemos a Crafts from the CWTH, es gratuito, en inglés, y accesible sin necesidad de descarga, en este enlace:

http://www.craftsfromthecwtch.co.uk/2014/12/scheepjes-christmas-blog-hop-knitted.html


Mi versión:

En mi primer intento, olvidé utilizar cuentas y abalorios, así que queda algo simplona, y las puntas no me quedaron muy definidas. Esto lo dejo caer para recordarme el introducir las cuentas antes del siguiente intento.
Utilicé una lana llamada Galaxy de Ofil, y para el tipo de aguja , 3 circulares, me ha ido bien, queda bonita en este estilo plateado, así que me planteo hacer alguna más, según me llegue el ovillo.
Al acabarlo, queda como una estrella de mar introvertida, hay que mojarla un poco - con spray-, plancharla - en frío, con la plancha apagada- y estirarla. También, le he pulverizado el stray para planchar, porque tiene algo de almidón, y la estrella se abrió y ahora tiene más forma. La he aplastado con unos libros para que coja la definitiva mientras se seca.







 El diseño está pensado para las fiestas navideñas y tal, y lo etiqueto así para tenerlo de referencia,...pero no creo que este tipo de cosas sólo puedan ser para Navidad. Todo está en el color y el gusto de cada. Resulta muy triste el día que tienes que recoger todos los adornos, la casa queda como vacía y sin brillo. Este tipo de tapetes, en distintos colores, pueden evitar esa sensación de nostalgia. Esta es la típica reflexión de quien ha tejido algo navideño en verano , jajaja

No sé que pensarás tu, pero personalmente me gustan más estos tapetes que los blancos clásicos de toda la vida, los de filet crochet en blanco por ejemplo siempre me dieron grimilla. Habiendo tantos colores, tantos dibujos, y tantísmas formas, ¿ por qué siempre eso? y sobre todo... ¿ por qué tan ñoño? XD




Sources:
http://www.craftsfromthecwtch.co.uk/2014/12/scheepjes-christmas-blog-hop-knitted.html
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/knitted-star-motif
http://www.ravelry.com/projects/Baboushkas/knitted-star-motif

Monday, 24 August 2015

Happy Kitty Toilet Paper Cozy

Happy Kitty Toilet Paper Cozy


Inaguantable lo gracioso que es este cubrerollos. Este patrón está tiradísimo, y cambia el chip de un baño en segundos. Está ideado para que quien sea principiante pueda hacer algo útil, bonito y curioso sin dejarse mucho tiempo y dinero, y automatizar puntos dobles.
 Si te animas a tener uno, cosa que es más que probable, puedes encontrar la descarga gratuita del patrón (inglés) en la página Ravelry´s de Ivory Herman, en el siguiente link:



Y este es mi intento, espero que os guste tanto como a mí. 
Cualquiera que tenga gato lo comprenderá.





Source:
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/happy-kitty-toilet-paper-cozy
Mi versión:
http://www.ravelry.com/projects/Baboushkas/happy-kitty-toilet-paper-cozy-2

Apple Cozy // Porta Manzanas



En el apartado crochetero de cubre-cositas, puedes encontrar tonterías muy grandes, y cosas utilísimas, como la que presento aquí.

                                                     Apple Cozy // Portamanzanas

                                          (Rights for MakealltheThings, linked below)

          Esta idea se la debemos a Rebecca Lang, y el patrón es gratuito, en inglés:   http://makeallthethings.blogspot.com.es/2013/03/apple-cozy-crochet-pattern.html 
No deja de ser un proyecto facilísimo,ideal para principiantes,porque se hace en un rato. No utiliza puntos difíciles, se trabaja en espiral, ni necesita gran cantidad de lana, pero sí tiene que ser gruesa- o usamos doble hebra-.

Cada vez hay más proyectos con intención de instaurar o mantener hábitos saludables. Es una suerte que lleguen estas cosas. Este portafruta, igual que otros, es una idea genial para que lo lleven peques al cole o al trabajo. Hay versiones y cozys para distintos tipos de fruta, todo es buscar la que más utilizas. Si te animas con éste, por empezar no está mal,  pero con todos los cozy que tocan la comida directamente es extremar la higiene, al crearlo, al usarlo y al reusarlo (y no dejar ninguna fruta en su interior, no es una nevera, y se puede estropear).




Pronto otros Cozy y más proyectitos!

Source:

http://makeallthethings.blogspot.com.es/2013/03/apple-cozy-crochet-pattern.html

Sunday, 23 August 2015

Estudio de las Hojas, primera parte. (Purse with leaves// Bolsos de hojas)


 Estudio monográfico de las Hojas tejidas
                                                             (primera parte)



Qué encontrarás aquí:
  •  Dos proyectos gratuitos a punto, nivel principiante y nivel intermedio, para practicar la forma de la hoja.
  • Distintas formas de disminución por la derecha para distintas perfilaciones de las hojas.
  • Sugerencias y mucha parafernalia personal.

       Cualquiera que empieza a tejer es porque tiene una idea en mente. Has visto un shawl , un bolso y quieres aprender a hacerlo. No soy la única que tiene cierta devoción por los símbolos naturales. La hoja es un elemento que sienta bien, hacerlo, recibirlo, mirarlo, tocarlo... y en cuanto aprendes a hacerlas, no quieres parar de hacer más.

     Cuando empecé a tejer, me encontré con un patrón que en su momento me pareció interesante por lo rápido y económico. Es Knitted Wreath: como véis, no es más que hojas que se siguen hasta cerrarse en círculo, algo elegante para decorar y según que colores y añadidos le pongamos tendrá una significación u otra.

         
                                        (Copyrights for Julie Weisenberger Cocoknits)


Este patrón está disponible en inglés,  en PDF. su descarga es gratuita desde la página de CocoKnits
: http://store.cocoknits.com/patterns/knitted-wreath/

Me estrellé. A pesar de ser un patrón especialmente diseñado para principiantes, me estrellé estrepitosamente porque no tenía una guía, y eran mis primeras formas a dos agujas. Desde donde me encuentro, no puedo ver vídeos, y hay detalles de cómo hacer algunos puntos que se me escapaban al ver sólo fotos. No quedaron feas, ... simplemente no me gustó el resultado y lo aparté. Por esto aún no he colgado mi versión de éste proyecto, aunque la habrá.


Purse with Leaves
                                                         
                                                              ( Rights for: Kristiina Temin )


 Purse with Leaves es un proyecto precioso sea para principiantes avanzadas, como es mi caso, o para ya expertas. El tiempo en hacerlo dependerá del vicio que tengas en: Ribbing, forma de hojas contiguas, i-cords. Básicamente, lo que yo tardo una semana en hacer, mi madre lo hace en dos días, sin patrón y a dos agujas.

   En realidad este patrón ayuda a afianzar muchos puntos y a pasar de nivel a nivelazo!! :D

  Podéis encontrar este patrón gratuito bajo subscripción a Ravelry, en varios idiomas, pero aún no está disponible en español: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/purse-with-leaves.
Es interesantísimo, mientras babeas por un patrón, curiosear las ideas y los proyectos relacionados. En mi miniinvestigación, buscaba sugerencias de colores, pero encontré algo muchísimo mejor...


Comparativa y sugerencias de disminuciones para las hojas (por Shivaji)
  A continuación os enseño las reflexiones de una autora buenísima que aporta mucho a los diseños de otras personas describiendo y enlazando videos. Es una joya, y tiene proyectos genialísimos. En su descripción del bolso, nos analiza distintos resultados según la técnica de disminución. Ojo a su comparativa:

 

 (Copyrights for Shivaji´s ravelry page)

Siento que esté en inglés, a aprender terminología!!

"A new Centred Double Decrease (CDD):
I ended the tip of each leaf with a new CDD instead of the k3tog suggested by the pattern. The way I’ve done a CDD in the past is as follows: slip2tog knitwise, knit 1, pass the 2 slipped sts over. The middle stitch ends up on top and the first and third stitches are tucked behind it on either side. This time I tried the variation described by Meg Swansen and Amy Detjen in Knitting with Two Colors. They like it for its speed. It goes like this:
Slip2tog knitwise, slip 1 (knitwise or purlwise, your choice), insert the left needle into the front of all three stitches (from left to right) and k3tog


 Comparing four different Left-Leaning Decreases (LLD):
I took the opportunity offered by the four leaves that embellish the i-cords to try out four different LLDs. (See the four bottom photos).


 1) The first one I ever learned: SKP: slip 1 knitwise, knit 1, psso

 2) The one I learned next: Barbara Walker’s SSK: Slip two stitches, one at a time, as if to knit. Then insert left needle into them from left to right and knit them together.

 3) Dee Barrington’s SSK as described in Knitting with Two Colors which I learned recently:
Slip the first stitch knitwise, slip the second stitch purlwise. Insert the left needle into them from left to right and knit them together


 4) Lucy Neatby’s SSK which I learned even more recently:
Slip two stitches, one at a time, as if to knit. Then insert left needle into them from right to left and knit them together."


 Si queréis comprobar sus reflexiones, aquí las podéis encontrar: http://www.ravelry.com/projects/Shivaji/purse-with-leaves

 El acabado que sugiere usar para disminuir fue el número 3, y ha sido el que he querido aprender a usar yo también. Intentaré traducirlo, aunque no se me da bien: Deslizas el punto como si fueras a hacer un punto normal, deslizas también el segundo como si fueses a hacer punto inverso, pones la aguja izquierda de izquierda a derecha (cogiendo los dos desplazados) y los tejes normal. Espero sirva, siento no saber explicarlo mejor.



Y aquí os enseño mis intentos:



 


 Son distintos tipos de verde, siento que las fotos no le hacen mucha justicia al color...

El bolso más oscuro está hecho sobre 100 puntos, en lugar de 80 del inicio del patrón, para que quedara algo más grande. Su circunferencia tiene 10 hojas en lugar de 8 de los demás bolsos.


Ojo al nudo chino ;) Es muy facilito, una vez haces uno puedes hacer muchos. Aquí un tutorial. Hay muchos nudos chinos, si este no te convence siempre puedes buscar el que más te mole.

Resultado de imagen de lucky Knot how to



Espero esta entrada haya aportado algo nuevo.
Pronto habrá más!


Sources:
Patrón Purse with Leaves -original- :
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/purse-with-leaves

Versión de Shivaji :
http://www.ravelry.com/projects/Shivaji/purse-with-leaves

Versión de Knitted Wreath en Ravelry :
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/knitted-wreath

Patrón de Knitted Wreath , página original CocoKnits
 http://store.cocoknits.com/patterns/knitted-wreath/

Mi versión en Ravelry:
 http://www.ravelry.com/projects/Baboushkas/purse-with-leaves


Friday, 7 August 2015

Hula Hamsters; my version



Razón por la que aprender a tejer...


Hula Hamsters

Música recomendada:

https://youtu.be/Nqj_mtdpV-o




Este patrón es de pago (£3.00 ) y estaba disponible en Simply Knitting 57, August 2009 , pero esta edición está descatalogada ya, así que si no tenéis la suerte de tener una biblioteca cerca que tenga revistas de costura y en concreto ésa, la solución es ir directamente a la página web original del autor, y descargar el documento del patrón en pdf., junto a otros muchos patrones chulísimos por cierto: http://www.alandart.co.uk/latest/
Alan Dart Website Os va a encantar este autor, hace maravillas a dos agujas.

Según mi experiencia, Hula Hamsters es un patrón visualmente muy gratificante, con muchos detalles y muy amoroso #aroha. Parecen estar bailando de verdad y la escena es fantástica. Sólo por el colorido merece la pena hacerlos. No hay rincón que no alegren, con ese toque hawaii tan veraniego.

Aspectos técnicos:
A pesar de que las partes básicas del cuerpo, cabeza, las patitas y orejas son iguales para todos los hamsters una vez conoces uno, conoces todos, no se puede decir que el resultado global sea fácil. No es un patrón para principiantes y menos si no sabemos leer los patrones de punto en inglés. Hay partes confusas en las que no se sabe si tejer en redondo o en hilera. La guitarra por ejemplo es un caos, personalmente no me gratifica el resultado. Mi consejo es bien probar primero con otros patrones más simples, o empezar con las partes más fáciles; bien tirarse de cabeza y hacerlos y deshacerlos hasta que salgan al gusto ^_^

Otro consejo que os doy es marcar donde ponéis los mofletes, para que la cara quede más hamster... Mejor marcar que darse cuenta tarde del error....
Y no postergar, porque acabas cogiéndole manía a los animalitos y mira que son monos.











Sources:
 http://www.alandart.co.uk/latest/
http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/hula-hamsters
http://www.simplyknitting.co.uk/

Tuesday, 4 August 2015

Wildlife Rescue Nets

 

 Es una suerte encontrarte proyectos solidarios como éste, que unen pasiones animalistas y tejedoras/crocheteras. Y es que podemos hacer más de lo que hacemos, sólo que no sabemos cómo.

WildLife Rescue Nets es un proyecto nacido en Canadá, que se proyecta a varios paises. Consiste en ofrecer patrones gratis para que el voluntariado tejedor pueda crear nidos y refugios para animales bebé en rehabilitación.


Copio aqui los patrones sólo por facilitarme su búsqueda.
La autoría del texto entrecomillado es de la página  https://www.facebook.com/wildliferescuenests/notes
Veréis que estan en inglés y en distintos formatos, crochet y punto dos agujas. Hay que atender a la tensión ( al ser nidos y cuevitas, cuanto más apretado esté el punto mejor).
 
"

CROCHETED WILDLIFE RESCUE NESTS

"I've tried a lot of other patterns found on-line and ended up just making my own pattern.  The bottoms are really flat, making them very stable and if the tension is kept tight they are quite rigid and hold their shape very well.

INSTRUCTIONS

Size 5mm / H or 8(U.S.) / 6(U.K.) crochet hook
2 strands of yarn and medium (4) weight acrylic yarn used

Two strands of yarn used to increase strength, more tension on yarn while crocheting will yield a tighter pattern with no holes.  Even though these nests are typically lined with paper towels/cloths, it is essential that these are made as tightly as possible to reduce the risks of claws/toes getting caught and it also helps to hold their shape properly.

1st rnd:Ch 1. 6 sc in ring. Join with sl st to first sc.  (see note and photo at bottom of pattern)
This allows you to tighten and make the hole in the bottom as small as possible and tie off when your done.
2nd rnd:Ch 1. 2 sc in each sc around. Join with sl st to first sc. (12 sc. total)
3rd rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in next sc) 6 times. Join with sl st to first sc. (18 sc. total)
4th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 2 sc) 6 times. Join with sl st to first sc. (24 sc. total)
5th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 3 sc) 6 times. Join with sl st to first sc. (30 sc. total)
6th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 4 sc) 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc. (36 sc. total)

Continue working rows 7-15 even, Ch 1. then 1 sc in each sc
Joining with sl st to first sc. on each row.
Fasten off

NOTE: The nest should be approximately 5 inches tall/deep when completed.  You may need to add more even rows to attain this height.  Folding the top lip over gives the nest extra stability and some of the rescues unfold the top lip and lightly fold it over the little ones that are in the nest to provide a more secure feeling for them.

This pattern is for a 3 inch nest, for larger nests continue the pattern out further before starting the even rows and you will also need to increase the number of even rows likely to have the sides reach five inches high.

EG.
*continue pattern and work to the 8th round for a 4 inch nest and then even rows 8-17
*continue pattern and work to the 10th round for a 5 inch nest and then even rows 10-20
*continue pattern and work to the 13th round for a 6 inch nest and then continue with even rows to bring the height of the sides to 5 inches
*continue pattern and work to the 18th round for a 10 inch nest and then continue with even rows to bring the height of the sides to 5 inches

I think there has been some confusion as to how to start these nests. Ch. 1, you then have to make that chain loop a little bigger, like in the picture below. Then you crochet your first 6 sc IN that loop. That will give you your first 6 stitches to build on and it allows for you to pull it closed and tighten the bottom , so there is no hole in the middle of the bottom. 
I think there has been some confusion as to how to start these nests. Ch. 1, you then have to make that chain loop a little bigger, like in the picture below. Then you crochet your first 6 sc IN that loop. That will give you your first 6 stitches to build on and it allows for you to pull it closed and tighten the bottom , so there is no hole in the middle of the bottom.


I do not knit and therefore have not tried this pattern, but our volunteers have been using it for awhile.  Please remember to keep the tension tight on the yarn to ensure a tight knit with no loose loops.

Knitting Directions
  1. Using 2 strands of yarn, cast on 54 stitches; then divide evenly among 4 dpns.
  2. Work in stockinette (all K stitches) until the nest is approximately 3″ tall.

  3. Purl one row, and then start to decrease:
  4. Row 1) K7, K2tog—repeat to end
  5. Row 2) K6, K2tog—repeat to end
  6. Row 3) K5, K2tog—repeat to end
  7. Row 4) K4, K2tog—repeat to end
  8. Row 5) K3, K2tog—repeat to end
  9. Row 6) K2, K2tog—repeat to end
  10. Row 7) K1, K2tog—repeat to end
  11. See tip #4 below to determine if you want to continue in this pattern for one more row. Cut yarns, leaving a 6″ tail. Slide yarn on needle, draw tight to close up end (put a few stitches across the gap if need be.) Weave in yarn and cut off.
Tips
  • To make sure the nest is tight and washable, use two strands of washable yarn (using two different colors to make counting stitches easier). Use three strands if the yarn is very fine.
  • Use double-pointed needles—just about any size, from 5 through 9, depending on the weight of the yarn. You can use circular needles if you prefer.
  • When doing K2tog, it seems to be easier to knit through the back loops rather than the front. If you’re still having problems with K2tog, try using a crochet hook to pull the yarn through.
  • Only decrease to the point where you have a small, easily closed gap in the bottom of the nest; otherwise there can be a bump on the bottom that can make the nest unstable.
  • Directions given are for nests that are about 4” across. Cast on fewer stitches for smaller nests. They knit up so quickly, it’s easy to experiment. (If the nest is much smaller, start the decrease with K6, K2tog.)
  • The yarn should not be fuzzy so toes don’t get caught

Many thanks to Barbara Johnson, friend of Native Songbird Care and Conservation, for designing these magnificent knitted nests.
 


CROCHETED CAVE NESTS

This is a new pattern inspired by Woodland Wildlife Sanctuary's request for a cave type bed for the squirrels they are caring for :)

INSTRUCTIONS

Size 5 crochet hook
Two strands of yarn used to increase strength, more tension on yarn while crocheting will yield a tighter pattern with no holes.  Even though these nests are typically lined with paper towels/cloths, it is essential that these are made as tightly as possible to reduce the risks of claws/toes getting caught and it also helps to hold their shape properly.

1st rnd:Ch 1. 6 sc in ring. Join with sl st to first sc. (See note and photo below pattern)
This allows you to tighten and make the hole in the bottom as small as possible and tie off when your done.
2nd rnd:Ch 1. 2 sc in each sc around. Join with sl st to first sc. (12 sc. total)
3rd rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in next sc) 6 times. Join with sl st to first sc. (18 sc. total)
4th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 2 sc) 6 times. Join with sl st to first sc. (24 sc. total)
5th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 3 sc) 6 times. Join with sl st to first sc. (30 sc. total)
6th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 4 sc) 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc. (36 sc. total)
7th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 5 sc) 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc. (42 sc. total)
8th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 6 sc) 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc. (48 sc. total)
9th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 7 sc) 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc. (54 sc. total)
10th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 8 sc) 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc. (60 sc. total)
11th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 9 sc) 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc. (66 sc. total)
12th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 10 sc) 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc. (72 sc. total)
13th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 11 sc) 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc. (78 sc. total)
14th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 12 sc) 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc. (84 sc. total)

Continue working rnds. 15-21 even, Ch 1., with 1 sc in each sc.
Joining with sl st to first sc. on each row.

Creating door:

22nd rnd:  Ch 1., then 1 sc in each of the next 68 sc.
23rd rnd: Turn, Ch 1. then sc in each of the next 68 sc.
Continue this for rnds. 24-30

31st rnd: Ch 1., then 1 sc in each of the next 68 sc., then Ch. 16 and join with a sl st to top row of "door" opening.  At this point you should have something that looks like the original nest, but with a door and a single chain of stitches across the top of the door.

32nd rnd: Ch 1., then 1 sc in each of the sc evenly, including the chain you created across the top of the door. (84 sc. total)
Continue working rnds. 33-36 even, Ch 1., with 1 sc. in each sc.
Joining with sl st to first sc. on each row.


Closing in the top:

37th rnd:Ch 1. (skip sc. 1 sc in each of next 13 sc) 6 times.   (78 sc. total)
38th rnd:Ch 1. (skip sc. 1 sc in each of next 12 sc) 6 times.   (72 sc. total)
39th rnd:Ch 1. (skip sc. 1 sc in each of next 11 sc) 6 times.   (66 sc. total)
40th rnd:Ch 1. (skip sc. 1 sc in each of next 10 sc) 6 times.   (60 sc. total)
41st rnd:Ch 1. (skip sc. 1 sc in each of next 9 sc) 6 times.   (54 sc. total)
42nd rnd:Ch 1. (skip sc. 1 sc in each of next 8 sc) 6 times.   (48 sc. total)
43rd rnd:Ch 1. (skip sc. 1 sc in each of next 7 sc) 6 times.   (42 sc. total)
44th rnd:Ch 1. (skip sc. 1 sc in each of next 6 sc) 6 times.   (36 sc. total)
45th rnd:Ch 1. (skip sc. 1 sc in each of next 5 sc) 6 times.   (30 sc. total)
46th rnd:Ch 1. (skip sc. 1 sc in each of next 4 sc) 6 times.  (24 sc. total)
47th rnd:Ch 1. (skip sc. 1 sc in each of next 3 sc) 6 times.  (18 sc. total)
48th rnd:Ch 1. (skip sc. 1 sc in each of next 2 sc) 6 times.   (12 sc. total)
49th rnd:Ch 1. (skip sc. 1 sc in each of next 1 sc) 6 times.   (6 sc. total)
50th rnd: There will be a very small whole left in the top that can sl st closed.  Pull extra thread to the inside and tie off and trim excess.


This pattern is for a 8 inch nest, once you have made and understand the pattern it should be fairly easy to adjust to whatever sized is needed. :)



How to start the nests. Ch. 1, you then have to make that chain loop a little bigger, like in the picture below. Then you crochet your first 6 sc IN that loop. That will give you your first 6 stitches to build on and it allows for you to pull it closed and tighten the bottom , so there is no hole in the middle of the bottom.How to start the nests. Ch. 1, you then have to make that chain loop a little bigger, like in the picture below. Then you crochet your first 6 sc IN that loop. That will give you your first 6 stitches to build on and it allows for you to pull it closed and tighten the bottom , so there is no hole in the middle of the bottom.


Knitting Directions for 8 Inch Nests


*** Please work with heavy tension on the yarn, as this makes for tighter, more stable nests that are less likely to get toes or claws caught in them.

  1. Using 2 strands of yarn, cast on 108 stitches; then divide evenly among 4 dpns.
  2. Work in stockinette (all K stitches) until the nest is approximately 3″ tall or height requested.
  3. Purl one row, and then start to decrease:
  4. Row 1) K14, K2tog—repeat to end
  5. Row 2) K13, K2tog—repeat to end
  6. Row 3) K12, K2tog—repeat to end
  7. Row 4) K11, K2tog—repeat to end
  8. Row 5) K10, K2tog—repeat to end
  9. Row 6) K9, K2tog—repeat to end
  10. Row 7) K8, K2tog—repeat to end
  11. Row 8) K7, K2tog—repeat to end
  12. Row 9) K6, K2tog—repeat to end
  13. Row 10) K5, K2tog—repeat to end
  14. Row 11) K4, K2tog—repeat to end
  15. Row 12) K3, K2tog—repeat to end
  16. Row 13) K2, K2tog—repeat to end
  17. Row 14) K1, K2tog—repeat to end
****See tip #4 below to determine if you want to continue in this pattern for one more row.

Cut yarns, leaving a 6″ tail. Slide yarn on needle, draw tight to close up end (put a few stitches across the gap if need be) Weave in yarn and cut off.


Tips
  • To make sure the nest is tight and washable, use two strands of washable yarn (using two different colors to make counting stitches easier). Use three strands if the yarn is very fine.
  • Use double-pointed needles—just about any size, from 5 through 9, depending on the weight of the yarn. You can use circular needles if you prefer.
  • When doing K2tog, it seems to be easier to knit through the back loops rather than the front. If you’re still having problems with K2tog, try using a crochet hook to pull the yarn through.
  • Only decrease to the point where you have a small, easily closed gap in the bottom of the nest; otherwise there can be a bump on the bottom that can make the nest unstable.
  • Directions given are for nests that are about 8” across.
  • The yarn should not be fuzzy so toes don’t get caught

Adapted from the original 4 inch nest design by Barbara Johnson, friend of Native Songbird Care and Conservation.

8 INCH CROCHETED WILDLIFE RESCUE NESTS

I've tried a lot of other patterns found on-line and ended up just making my own pattern.  The bottoms are really flat, making them very stable. They are quite rigid and hold their shape very well.  The tension on the yarn while crocheting needs to be heavy, as it will be keep the nests tight and avoid issues with toes and claws getting caught.

INSTRUCTIONS

Size 5 crochet hook, 2 strands of yarn and medium (4) weight acrylic yarn used

Two strands of yarn used to increase strength, more tension on yarn while crocheting will yield a tighter pattern with no holes.  Even though these nests are typically lined with paper towels/cloths, it is essential that these are made as tightly as possible to reduce the risks of claws/toes getting caught and it also helps to hold their shape properly.

1st rnd:Ch 1. 6 sc in ring. Join with sl st to first sc. (See note and photo at bottom of pattern)
This allows you to tighten and make the hole in the bottom as small as possible and tie off when your done.
2nd rnd:Ch 1. 2 sc in each sc around. Join with sl st to first sc. (12 sc. total)
3rd rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in next sc) 6 times. Join with sl st to first sc. (18 sc. total)
4th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 2 sc) 6 times. Join with sl st to first sc. (24 sc. total)
5th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 3 sc) 6 times. Join with sl st to first sc. (30 sc. total)
6th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 4 sc) 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc. (36 sc. total)
7th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 5 sc) 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc. (42 sc. total)
8th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 6 sc) 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc. (48 sc. total)
9th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 7 sc) 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc. (54 sc. total)
10th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 8 sc) 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc. (60 sc. total)
11th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 9 sc) 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc. (66 sc. total)
12th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 10 sc) 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc. (72 sc. total)
13th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 11 sc) 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc. (78 sc. total)
14th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 12 sc) 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc. (84 sc. total)
15th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 13 sc) 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc. (90 sc. total)
16th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 14 sc) 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc. (96 sc. total)
17th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 15 sc) 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc. (102 sc. total)


Continue working rounds 18-43 even, Ch 1. then 1 sc in each sc
Joining with sl st to first sc. on each row.
Fasten off

NOTE: The nest should be approximately 5 inches tall/deep when completed.  You may need to add more even rows to attain this height.  Folding the top lip over gives the nest extra stability and some of the rescues unfold the top lip and lightly fold it over the little ones that are in the nest to provide a more secure feeling for them.

How to start the nests. Ch. 1, you then have to make that chain loop a little bigger, like in the picture below. Then you crochet your first 6 sc IN that loop. That will give you your first 6 stitches to build on and it allows for you to pull it closed and tighten the bottom , so there is no hole in the middle of the bottom.How to start the nests. Ch. 1, you then have to make that chain loop a little bigger, like in the picture below. Then you crochet your first 6 sc IN that loop. That will give you your first 6 stitches to build on and it allows for you to pull it closed and tighten the bottom , so there is no hole in the middle of the bottom.

Knitted Cave Nest Pattern

Many thanks to Carolyn Walsh for creating this pattern for knitted cave nests and making the first one to ensure it would work :)  I have had many knitters attempt to create one without success.  I am so happy to be able to share this with all of our knitters who have been patiently waiting for it.



                              Knitted Cave Nest



I don't use a circular needle for this pattern.  I use 7 inch double edged needles.
Since the needles are short, I use 7 needles (6 have stitches and 1 to work with).
If you use a circular needle, it would be for only part of the nest.

size 5 mm needles
2 strands of yarn

Cast on 6 sts. ( 2 on each needle)  Join in round
1st  Knit 1, increase 1,  repeat to end of round.  (4 sts. on each needle,12 sts. in total.)
2nd. Knit 2 sts., increase 1 st., repeat to end of round.(18 sts. in total)
3rd.  Knit 3 sts., increase 1 st., repeat to end of round.( 24 sts.)
4th.  Knit 4 sts., inc. 1 st., repeat to end. ( 30 sts.)
5th  Knit 5 sts., increase 1 st., repeat to end. (36 sts.)
6th.  Knit 6 sts., increase 1 st., repeat to end. (42 sts.)
7th  Knit 7 sts., increase 1 st., repeat to end. (48 sts.)
8th.  Knit 8 sts., increase 1 st., repeat to end. ( 54 sts. )
It is at this point when I change from 3 needles with stitches to 6 needles.
9th. Knit 9 sts., increase 1 st., repeat to end.( 60 sts.)
10th.  Knit 10 sts., increase 1 st., repeat to end. ( 66 sts. )
11th.  Knit 11 sts., increase 1 st., repeat to end. (72 sts. )
12th. Knit 12 sts., increase 1 st., repeat to end. (78 sts.)
13th. Knit 13 sts., increase 1 st., repeat to end. ( 84 sts.)
At this point you should have 14 sts. on each needle ( 28 sts. if you are using 3 longer needles)

Rows 14 to 21  Knit
22 nd.  Cast off 16 sts., knit to end. ( 68 sts. )
23rd.  Purl row
24th. Knit to end.
25th. Purl
Repeat  24th. and 25th. rows, 5 times each. This makes the opening in the nest.
36th. Knit to end of round, then cast on 16 stitches ( 84 sts. )
37th. to 40 th. Knit.
41st. Knit 12sts., knit 2 together, repeat to end.
42nd.  Knit 11sts., knit 2 tog., repeat to end.
43rd.  Knit 10 sts., knit 2 tog., repeat to end.
44th.  Knit 9 sts., knit 2 tog., repeat to end.
45th.  Knit 8 sts., knit 2 tog., repeat to end.
46th. Knit 7 sts., knit 2 tog., repeat to end.
47th. Knit 6 sts., knit 2 tog., repeat to end.
48th.  Knit 5 sts., knit 2 tog., repeat to end.
49th.  Knit 4 sts., knit 2 tog., repeat to end.
50th.  Knit 3 sts., knit 2 tog., repeat to end.
51st. Knit 2 sts., knit 2 tog., repeat to end.
52nd. Knit 1 st., knit 2 tog., repeat to end.
53rd. Knit 2 together 6 times
You should have 6 stitches remaining.
Draw up and tie off the stitches.
Sew in the yarn ends.
 



MINI CROCHETED CAVE NESTS

Our original cave nest pattern was inspired by Woodland Wildlife Sanctuary's request for a cave type bed for the squirrels they were caring for.  The original pattern made an 8 inch cave nest.  Many of the wildlife rescues are enjoying using the smaller mini caves for the cavity-dwelling baby birds they are caring for.   I have included two patterns below, one for a 5 inch cave nest and also one for a 3 inch cave nest.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR 5 INCH CAVE NEST

Size 4 mm crochet hook
Two strands of yarn used to increase strength, more tension on yarn while crocheting will yield a tighter pattern with no holes.  Even though these nests are typically lined with paper towels/cloths, it is essential that these are made as tightly as possible to reduce the risks of claws/toes getting caught and it also helps to hold their shape properly.

1st rnd:Ch 1. 6 sc in ring. Join with sl st to first sc. (See note and photo below pattern)
This allows you to tighten and make the hole in the bottom as small as possible and tie off when your done.

2nd rnd:Ch 1. 2 sc in each sc around. Join with sl st to first sc. (12 sc. total)

3rd rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in next sc) 6 times. Join with sl st to first sc. (18 sc. total)

4th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 2 sc) 6 times. Join with sl st to first sc. (24 sc. total)

5th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 3 sc) 6 times. Join with sl st to first sc. (30 sc. total)

6th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 4 sc) 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc. (36 sc. total)

7th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 5 sc) 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc. (42 sc. total)

8th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 6 sc) 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc. (48 sc. total)

9th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 7 sc) 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc. (54 sc. total)

Continue working rnds. 10-15 even, Ch 1., with 1 sc in each sc.
Joining with sl st to first sc. on each row.

Creating door:

16th rnd:  Ch 1., then 1 sc in each of the next 33 sc.

17th rnd: Turn, Ch 1. then sc in each of the next 33 sc.

Continue this for rnds. 18-25

26th rnd: Ch 1., then 1 sc in each of the next 33 sc., then Ch. 21 and join with a sl st to top row of "door" opening.  At this point you should have something that looks like the original nest, but with a door and a single chain of stitches across the top of the door. 

 27th rnd: Ch 1., then 1 sc in each of the sc evenly, including the chain you created across the top of the door. (54 sc. total)

Continue working rnds. 28 and 29 even, Ch 1., with 1 sc. in each sc.
Joining with sl st to first sc. on each row.

Closing in the top:

30th rnd:Ch 1. (skip sc. 1 sc in each of next 8 sc) 6 times.  (48 sc. total)

31st rnd:Ch 1. (skip sc. 1 sc in each of next 7 sc) 6 times.  (42 sc. total)

32nd rnd:Ch 1. (skip sc. 1 sc in each of next 6 sc) 6 times.  (36 sc. total)

33rd rnd:Ch 1. (skip sc. 1 sc in each of next 5 sc) 6 times.  (30 sc. total)

34th rnd:Ch 1. (skip sc. 1 sc in each of next 4 sc) 6 times.  (24 sc. total)

35th rnd:Ch 1. (skip sc. 1 sc in each of next 3 sc) 6 times.  (18 sc. total)

36th rnd:Ch 1. (skip sc. 1 sc in each of next 2 sc) 6 times.   (12 sc. total)

37th rnd:Ch 1. (skip sc. 1 sc in each of next 1 sc) 6 times.  (6 sc. total)

38th rnd: There will be a very small whole left in the top that can sl st closed.  Pull extra thread to the inside and tie off and trim excess.



 INSTRUCTIONS FOR 3 INCH CAVE NEST


 Size 4 mm crochet hook
Two strands of yarn used to increase strength, more tension on yarn while crocheting will yield a tighter pattern with no holes.  Even though these nests are typically lined with paper towels/cloths, it is essential that these are made as tightly as possible to reduce the risks of claws/toes getting caught and it also helps to hold their shape properly.

1st rnd:Ch 1. 6 sc in ring. Join with sl st to first sc. (See note and photo below pattern)
This allows you to tighten and make the hole in the bottom as small as possible and tie off when your done.

2nd rnd:Ch 1. 2 sc in each sc around. Join with sl st to first sc. (12 sc. total)

3rd rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in next sc) 6 times. Join with sl st to first sc. (18 sc. total)

4th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 2 sc) 6 times. Join with sl st to first sc. (24 sc. total)

5th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 3 sc) 6 times. Join with sl st to first sc. (30 sc. total)

6th rnd:Ch 1. (2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 4 sc) 6 times.  Join with sl st to first sc. (36 sc. total)

Continue working rnds. 7-11 even, Ch 1., with 1 sc in each sc.
Joining with sl st to first sc. on each row.

Creating door:

12th rnd:  Ch 1., then 1 sc in each of the next 24 sc.

13th rnd: Turn, Ch 1. then sc in each of the next 24 sc.

Continue this for rnds. 14-19

20th rnd: Ch 1., then 1 sc in each of the next 24 sc., then Ch. 12 and join with a sl st to top row of "door" opening.  At this point you should have something that looks like the original nest, but with a door and a single chain of stitches across the top of the door. 

 21st rnd: Ch 1., then 1 sc in each of the sc evenly, including the chain you created across the top of the door. (36 sc. total)
Joining with sl st to first sc. on each row.

Closing in the top:

22nd rnd:Ch 1. (skip sc. 1 sc in each of next 5 sc) 6 times.  (30 sc. total)

23rd rnd:Ch 1. (skip sc. 1 sc in each of next 4 sc) 6 times.  (24 sc. total)

24th rnd:Ch 1. (skip sc. 1 sc in each of next 3 sc) 6 times.  (18 sc. total)

25th rnd:Ch 1. (skip sc. 1 sc in each of next 2 sc) 6 times.  (12 sc. total)

26th rnd:Ch 1. (skip sc. 1 sc in each of next 1 sc) 6 times.  (6 sc. total)

27th rnd: There will be a very small whole left in the top that can sl st closed.  Pull extra thread to the inside and tie off and trim excess.

How to start the nests. Ch. 1, you then have to make that chain loop a little bigger, like in the picture below. Then you crochet your first 6 sc IN that loop. That will give you your first 6 stitches to build on and it allows for you to pull it closed and tighten the bottom , so there is no hole in the middle of the bottom.
How to start the nests. Ch. 1, you then have to make that chain loop a little bigger, like in the picture below. Then you crochet your first 6 sc IN that loop. That will give you your first 6 stitches to build on and it allows for you to pull it closed and tighten the bottom , so there is no hole in the middle of the bottom.


4 inch Mini Knitted Cave Nest Pattern

Many thanks to Carolyn Walsh for creating the original pattern for knitted cave nests and also for reviewing the revised Mini cave nest pattern and making the first one to ensure it would work.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

I don't use a circular needle for this pattern.  I use 7 inch double edged needles.
If you use a circular needle, it would be for only part of the nest.

3 - size 5 mm needles
2 strands of yarn

Cast on 6 sts. ( 2 on each needle)  Join in round
1st  Knit 1, increase 1,  repeat to end of round.  (4 sts. on each needle,12 sts. in total.)
2nd. Knit 2 sts., increase 1 st., repeat to end of round.(18 sts. in total)
3rd.  Knit 3 sts., increase 1 st., repeat to end of round.( 24 sts.)
4th.  Knit 4 sts., inc. 1 st., repeat to end. ( 30 sts.)
5th  Knit 5 sts., increase 1 st., repeat to end. (36 sts.)
6th.  Knit 6 sts., increase 1 st., repeat to end. (42 sts.)
7th  Knit 7 sts., increase 1 st., repeat to end. (48 sts.)
At this point you should have 16 sts. on each needle

Rows 8 to 15  Knit
16 th.  Cast off 14 sts., knit to end. ( 34 sts. )
17th.  Purl row
18th. Knit to end.
19th. Purl
Repeat  18th. and 19th. rows, 5 times each. This makes the opening in the nest.
30th. Cast on 14 sts.. Knit to end. ( 48 sts. )
31st. to 33rd. Knit.
34th. Knit 6 sts., knit 2 tog., repeat to end.
35th.  Knit 5 sts., knit 2 tog., repeat to end.
36th.  Knit 4 sts., knit 2 tog., repeat to end.
37th.  Knit 3 sts., knit 2 tog., repeat to end.
38th. Knit 2 sts., knit 2 tog., repeat to end.
39th. Knit 1 st., knit 2 tog., repeat to end.
40th. Knit 2 together 6 times
You should have 6 stitches remaining.
Draw up and tie off the stitches.
Sew in the yarn ends.

 
 "
( Repito, la autoría y derechos son de la página Wildlife Rescue Nets)

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 http://wildliferescuenests.weebly.com/
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